The
Soviet tanks are still scattered among the hills of paradise. They
have been there for the past 30 years, since the last Soviet soldier
left Afghanistan, and they’ll probably be for a long time.
Band-e-Amir is a mountainous region 170 km west of Kabul and about 50
km west of the Bamyan valley, where the colossal Buddhas destroyed by
the Taliban mortars in 2001 could be found. Here, a series of natural
travertine dams have given origin to crystal-blue lakes, creating one
of the country’s most spectacular landscapes.
After the fall of
the Taliban in 2001, Band-e-Amir has been one of the most popular
weekend retreats for the few Afghans who could afford the
uncomfortable and costly ride from the capital. And in 2009, it
officially became the first Afghan national park. But in the past
years the Taliban have regained control of much of the country,
including the province of Wardak, which must be crossed in order to
reach the park from Kabul. Thus, visitors from the capital have
become scarcer and scarcer.
The paradise, unfortunately, is still
surrounded by hell.
