No one ever conquered us 1

No one ever conquered us

Knights, businesspeople and artists: a journey through the lives of the well-to-do in the EU’s smallest country

Silence 2


Admired and scorned, desired and damned

The Rivers 4

The Rivers

Going to the beach is sure to be complicated in the first summer in the time of Covid-19. Many, in fact, are choosing to head to the river instead.

The Corona Poor 6

The Corona Poor

Who are the new poor living on the breadline because of Covid-19?

The Oxygen Route 7

The Oxygen Route

Covid-19: how the life-saving gas is produced and distributed

Life is Now 8

Life is Now

Managing childbirth amidst fear, loneliness and uncertainty during the pandemic

War Surgery 9

War Surgery

How Italy is working to contain the coronavirus “tsunami”

Gas Chamber Delhi 11

Gas Chamber Delhi

The Indian capital is the world’s most polluted city. And the consequences are disastrous

The Gold of Amazonia 12

The Gold of Amazonia

Extracting this precious metal in the heart of the forest causes serious damage. How can this be resolved?

Syrians in Limbo 14

Syrians in Limbo

They have fled the war in Syria. There are more than a million. But Beirut does not consider them refugees

The Lebanese Fragile Dream 15

The Lebanese Fragile Dream

Thirty years after the civil war, the country is poised between economic crises and political instability

Pure Tokyo 19

Pure Tokyo

The second you scratch the surface of modernity, you discover centuries of rigorous education in harmony and respect for social position

The New Hawaii 20

The New Hawaii

How the islands of Okinawa are becoming the Queen of the Pacific

Reliquiae 25


Whether real or fake, relics of saints are powerful objects of worship

Sardinia Liberated 26

Sardinia Liberated

A few military beaches have been opened to the public. But it’s only a drop

Etnaland 27


Daily life under the highest volcano in Europe

Standouts & Poors 31

Standouts & Poors

What really separates the richest and the poorest towns in the EU?

Endless Duomo 33

Endless Duomo

Go deep in Milan’s art and history of its most famous Cathedral

In the Ghetto 34

In the Ghetto

A district where integration and fundamentalism get mixed up

Gimme Shelter 36

Gimme Shelter

What is it like to be a refugee in a Swiss fallout shelter?

Ebola Aftermath 42

Ebola Aftermath

The country is leaving behind its back the Ebola nightmare.

Kommunalka 44


Soviet collective households in the noble palaces of Saint Petersburg have not disappeared today

Swinging Tirana 48

Swinging Tirana

A new life and energy run through the streets of the capital

Nogales Crossroads 51

Nogales Crossroads

Americans who want to have fun and save on their dental surgery come here: “The oddest frontier – wrote Paul Theroux – I have ever seen”

Verdi Is Alive! 52

Verdi Is Alive!

Son of an innkeeper from the Parma region, became the most famous Italian music composer of all time

In the Rice Triangle 54

In the Rice Triangle

A perfect network of ditches, streams and small canals ten thousand kilometres long: here is the “European China”

Plastic Mania 55

Plastic Mania

In Seoul, beauty is an obsession and a scalpel the easiest way to obtain it. A business of over five billion U.S. dollars a year

On the Border 56

On the Border

The last wall of the Cold War is a funfair closely watched by soldiers

Time to Go Solar 58

Time to Go Solar

Solar energy in Africa is useful (also) to charge phones and extract water

A Waterless Paradise 61

A Waterless Paradise

Drought is an extremely serious problem that is occurring more and more frequently

Macalle. The Perfect Prison 62

Macalle. The Perfect Prison

A model of jail enterprise, here prisoners sell fruit and fabrics, build houses and manage beauty centres

The Catacombs of Las Vegas 66

The Catacombs of Las Vegas

Las Vegas is a mermaid that enchants you with its lights but it is also a living hell for desperate people

Zahia's Trip 67

Zahia’s Trip

In Gaza the health system is collapsing, but leaving the Strip is a nigthmare

African Cape Canaveral 71

African Cape Canaveral

The African Cape Canaveral? It’s in Malindi, Kenya, a few degrees south of the Equator, amongst sandy white beaches and coconut palms. Here, in the Sixties, the first European satellites were launched into orbit and for more than twenty years, Italy continued launching rockets into space. Then the Europeans moved to French Guiana and the […]

The Princess of the Andes 72

The Princess of the Andes

Vicuña’s wool is the fiber of the rich. It is worn by the wealthiest men on earth, the only ones who can afford a coat worth thirty thousand dollar. Five centuries ago, there was only one man in the world who had the right to wear it: it was the Inca king, the ruler of […]

The Forgotten Sertão 73

The Forgotten Sertão

It’s the other Brazil, the anti-Amazon, the poorest and most arid region in Latin America. The Sertão, the Brazilian outback, is twice the size of England: part sea, part desert and part steppe, where life is hard and poverty is rife in the streets. Half of South America’s poorest inhabitants live here, in the Sertão, […]

Forgetting Chad 74

Forgetting Chad

After years of civil wars, the most neglected French colony in Africa is seeking a way to start again. It’s not easy: Chad suffers infantile malnutrition, it is stricken by drought and desertification and it is invaded by hundreds of thousands refugees from Central Africa and Sudan. The international community which is always focusing on […]

Bye Bye Petroleum 75

Bye Bye Petroleum

What will the Saudi Arabia of the future be like? The reformist and open-minded Arabia of King Abdullah, sovereign for the past four years, or the austere and conservative Arabia of the Muslim Ulema? I tried to imagine it, travelling from the capital,Riyadh, to the desert of the Nabataeans in the north, and down again […]

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